Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?

96 accord, lx, 4 cylinder, auto. 162,000 miles



I have barely had my car for one year, and have replaced brake pads, rotors, left ball joint, given it a tune-up, had the valves de-carboned and adjusted, and have also replaced the radiator, EGR valve, fuel filter, IAC valve, and ignition coil. when I took it in somewhere to check about a bad sounding brake, they told me the pads are aftermarket, but everything is otherwise fine. However, they said they found a leak at the rear main seal, and have quoted me $840 to fix that. Other shops thought the small oil leak was coming from the oil pan gasket, but these guys did a more specific check on such things.



Anyway, I've paid a ridiculous amount of money to fix this car up. Everyone says the engine and transmission seam to be fine, and that it's a car with a good life ahead of it, but I'm really worried. This is an expensive repair, and I also need to change the timing belt and water pump in the next 10k miles. My struts are also worn, though I hear they can be a home-job. My car has it's quirks, I'm just terrified of having to put more and more money into this thing. I said %26quot;one more repair%26quot; some five repairs ago



How much would it cost to replace the rear main seal? I know a lot of stuff has to be removed to reach it, but the damn part is only $20 and I have a hard time thinking I'd really be paying $820 in labor. Also, I need to know if 162k miles sounds normal for such a repair. I don't know if these things go bad at regular intervals or whether the people who owned the car before me ran it rough (they sure didn't bother to change much!)



I will probably call some shops around and see what they quote, but I'd like to see what other people say as wellCost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
The transmission has to come out to change the seal but still $800 seems like a lot. Get an estimate from independent mechanics. You don't have to go to the dealer. I would consider getting an engine from a salvage yard with less miles on it and many such yards will do the labor and provide the engine for less than $800.



Use has little to do with seal leaking. Seals can dry out and shrink over time due to various factors and start leaking. If the leak isn't bad, maybe you can live with it? Years ago there was a problem with compatibility issues between some synthetic oils and conventional oils and if you used synthetic oil and then switched to conventional it could result in leaking seals. Since your vehicle is 14 years old, who knows? this could be a contributing factor. However the compatibility problem has reportedly been solved for some time and should not be a problem with any name brand oils.



I know this is not a solution but something to consider. Personally If it was me I would seriously consider one of 2 options 1. changing the engine to one with less miles that will not need a timing belt for a while or 2. Giving up on this loss and look for another vehicle.Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
I can't believe this question is considered %26quot;resolved%26quot; with these answers and won't allow me to %26quot;answer%26quot;. Go to a site that specializes in Honda Accords like CB7tuner.com, cb5tuner.com, or HondaHookup and post your question, you will get better answers. The repair probably isn't even necessary.

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Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
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If the leak is small there's no hurry. And there's no certainty *at all* that the leak derives from the rear main oil seal in the first place as you really can't tell without taking the tranny off. There's no %26quot;diagnostic%26quot; that will tell.



I will agree, do not got to the dealership.

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Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
you are wasting your money on the car it is clearly a lemon and I would not be surprised if either it had been neglected or the mileage is way over what you believe, the leak is more likely from the gasket but topping up with oil is by far the cheapest option

1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?

HELLO!! My car is running rough since a month, I changed plug wires,spark plugs (ngk), air filter, drive belts, engine oil, but it still runs rough! Can my distributor be the reason? How do I test if my distributor is working properly? Does it have any inicial starting position everytime the engine goes on/off? What about the solenoide? Can my solenoide output voltage be the reason? Meaning less spark...?





I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it %26quot;has%26quot; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!



Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?



And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!



Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...



And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine %26quot;stumbles%26quot; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.



If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me

How do I lower my HC to pass emmissions?

I have a 89 Olds Cutlass Ciera that passed everything but NOx at first, 2.75, should be 2, then after I ran fuel injector cleaner through it and then later octane boost, my mechanic happened to find a broken fuse end in my EGR valve and said that could be the reason why it wasn't passing NOx... he couldn't do the test because his machine was down... another guy checked the EGR valve and said it was faulty and that someone must have put the fuse in to bypass it, but I know my mech wouldn't do that... he wanted a high amount(over 500) to change it... so I took it to my wife's cousin's shop where he works, and he said he was pretty sure he could get it to pass for me... NOW the NOx is .09 but the HC is about 3.5 when it should be lower than 0.8, which it was earlier... I remembered I hadn't changed spark plugs or wires in about two years... so if I go get them changed, the HC should pass then right??How do I lower my HC to pass emmissions?
never mind the additives and the cat, do a full tune up and the hcs should drop.How do I lower my HC to pass emmissions?
change the fuel mixture.. that is three gallon of gas to two quarts of menthenol.. and it will pass...How do I lower my HC to pass emmissions?
Also change your cataletic converter. a new converter will give you great emissions results.

My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?

Hi guys I just joined this forum and this is my first post and I really need some HELP.

I have a problem and would like come suggestion on how to fix it.

I have a 1988 Chevy truck with a 4.3 motor and I swaped it out for another 4.3 motor because the other one was no good . I had to take it for a emission test but before I did I changed the oil 'oil filter replaced the plugs' rotor and cap and then took it for the test and it failed.

Here's the reading of the test.



ASM 2525 Curb Idle

Limit Reading Result Limit Reading Result

HC ppm 83 190 FAIL 200 419 FAIL

CO% 0.46 0.95 FAIL 1.00 1.99 FAIL

NO ppm 893 203 PASS N/A N/A N/A

RPM 1296 VALID RPM 582 VALID

Dilution 14.8 VALID Dilution 14.8 VALID



OVERALL TEST RESULTS : FAIL



IT FAILED : So I brought it back home and I took of the EGR valve and checked the ports to make sure they where not cloged and they where clean and I cleaned the EGR valve put it back on. I checked the vacuum line on the EGR valve to make sure it was opening right after idle and checked all other vacuum lines for leaks.I dumped some good throttle body ' valve and combustion chanber cleaner down it and let it site . Then I started it and boy did it ever smoke. I changed the plug wires air filter and pcv valve and took it for another test.



ASM 2525 Curb Idle

Limit Reading Result Limit Reading Result

HC ppm 83 191 FAIL 200 313 FAIL

CO% 0.47 0.58 FAIL 1.00 0.52 PASS

NO ppm 893 172 PASS N/A N/A N/A

RPM 1321 VALID RPM 563 VALID

Dilution 13.4 VALID Dilution 13.2 VALID

OVERALL TEST RESULTS : FAIL

Can anyone give me a suggestion on what to do next.

I checked the timing but I wasn't sure what the timing is suppose to be. I looked in my book but it did not say and I looked on my truck but nothing.

Anyhow I read in the book that the ignition timing cannot be abjusted on 1996 and later SFI engines on a 4.3L v6 engines because it is electronic controled. So what can I do to bring the HC and CO down to make it pass.

Thanks in advance for any HELP.

PS: and I changed the catalytic converter 2 years ago ' I put a universal cat on it and now someone told me that they only last one to two years ' Is that true.My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
LOL, (not at you),

everybody always says replace yhe O2 sensor,

well in this case they would be correct,

if you had a scan tool available you would note the high block learn and integrator numbers,

simply replace the O2 sensor and go pass your test

your welcome in advance,



if you do as I say you will pass!!!!!



change only the O2 sensor, not the cat.,

the egr valve only works to reduce NOX emissions by lowering combustion temperature, the cat helps burn excess hydrocarbon but only to an extent, a good running fuel injected vehicle could pass a HC and CO emission test without a cat, however it would fail in the nitrogen oxide area!!My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
If both HC and CO are high, the vehicle may have a bad catalytic converter or an air pump problem. if you put a new catalytic converter on it prior to swapping motors, the old one probably plugged it up.



Also, you need to make sure that the truck is good and hot prior to the test. The cat is only effective when it's hot.My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
Is running rich, check for loose and/or dirty connectors and like mentioned, the O2 sensor can be reading wrong. By the way... is all stock? Did you changed anything like High Performance? Such as, Exhaust Headers, Performance Chip or any other toy that can throw off the sensor readings?My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
my trust in bustas here he has bailed me out beforeMy Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
Did you say the timing hasn't been set?

On these it must be set.

There is a wire you disconnect, then a timing light will work.

I am not sure where it is, but I would get the timing set first.

This will cause your emission problems.

4 the mechanics out there, is this possible?

I'm not mechanically inclined, so on here needing advice. I'll try to make this as short as possible, but might be hard, because need to put details in it.



OK, months ago, brought my car in for oil change, a few days before that, my check engine light went on, then next day went off, then next day, went back on. Had it diagnosed and the mechanic told me the code was P0401 (EGR Flow Insufficient). Long story short, a couple of days after that, my engine seized up, so got a used engine put into my car, and picked it up last night. I had a shattered piston and it went all over the inside of my engine, (or something to that fact). The mechanic gave me parts of my piston in a sandwich baggie, in pieces. Anyways, picking up and driving the car last night, i noticed my check engine was back on. I actually forgot about that, but figured it'd still be on even though I got a used engine put in, the check engine going back on was possible, especially after reading up on the P0401 code I was told.



Beside the %26quot;new%26quot; engine, the following new items were installed as well, new radiator cap, plugs, gasket, exhaust gasket, air filter, fuel filter, serp belt, thermostat, thermostat gasket, water pump, lower intake gasket, %26quot;wires%26quot;, egr valve gasket, and a throttle body gasket. All these items are from the receipt.



So was going to get a smog check today, and I needed to have the check engine light off first. Told the mechanic about the replaced engine, and the code I was told months ago. He hooked up the diagnostic machine and the information below was printed out and given to me



Misfire Status - Complete

Fuel Status - Complete

Comprehensive Status - Complete

Catalyst Status - Not Complete

Heated Catalyst Status - Not Available

Evaporative Status - Not Complete

Secondary Air Status - Not Available

AC Status - Not Available

Oxygen Status - Complete

Oxygen Heater Status - Complete

EGR Status - Not Complete



And the codes listed below were found as well

P0401 = EGR Flow Insufficient Detected

P0304 = Cylinder 4 Misfired Detected

P0305 = Cylinder 5 Misfired Detected

P0305 = Cylinder 6 Misfired Detected



Now with a new engine put in, and me not being mechanically inclined, how can I have 3 cylinders misfiring. I've only driven it for about a day now, and it's running great. And if 3 cylinders are misfiring, wouldn't I noticed a reduction in power, or a performance difference, because I'm not. It's running great.



The mechanic cleared them out, and told me to come back after driving about 50 miles to see if the engine light comes back on.



Does this sound right what he told me. The insufficent EGR Flow code makes me wonder why that code would appear again, especially if they put in a new EGR valve, and 3 cylinders misfiring? Could an engine run and sound as good as it does if it has 3 out of 6 cylinders misfiring ?



Not famaliar with the EGR works, but if they put it a new EGR valve, wouldn't this fix the %26quot;EGR CODE P0401%26quot; for insufficient airflow ?4 the mechanics out there, is this possible?
the cylinder misfire codes are an indication of a bad coil pack . the EGR code is probably valid. The tube the EGR connects to can be clogged with carbon build up. Remove it, clean it out and reinstall it and the EGR valve. Should make the problem go away. Replacing the coil pack should make the cylinder misfire go away, provided the plugs and wires are in good shape, and the cylinders have decent compression, especially from a used engine.4 the mechanics out there, is this possible?
You would Notice it. If you don`t see anything out the exhaust you should be ok.4 the mechanics out there, is this possible?
this from history of old engine

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1999 blazer stalling at takeoff?

only stalled when you punch it until now have changed fuel filter.The service engine soon light came on and took to auto parts says 1 EGR position sensor failed 2 open or shut circuit condition 3 failed egr valve would this cause stalling and how to fix.1999 blazer stalling at takeoff?
I wish I knew what type of gas your using because it sounds like your using the cheap market gas in your tank.if you want the blazer to act right go to a real gas station and get real gas like chevron but before you get there go to a pharmacy and get 2 bottles of rubbing alcohol at a 92% type and then go to parts store and get some gas treatment 2 bottles and then go to the gas station and dump in all you got and say fill it up with real gas.This will treat the whole fuel system and you'll get better response over a little time.Chevron uses the techron in there fuel which is good in all gas fuel systems.it does some good cleaning even in the combustion chamber.1999 blazer stalling at takeoff?
vtak incabulator resistor is faulty. go to autozone and ask for a 99 blazer one.1999 blazer stalling at takeoff?
yes this would cause the vehicle to stall. All EGR valves need to be replaced so it will stop stalling on you.

Bad Gas Mileage And Sensors?

I Am Having The Following Problem...



I Have A 1991 Chevy S-10 Pickup, 2.8 V6, 2WD, Manual Transmission. I Am Really Getting Bad gas Mileage 7MPG. I Put A New O2 Sensor, Fuel Filter, Thermostat, Spark Plugs/Wires, Air Filter, And I Believe Thats It. I Would Like Any Info Why I Am Having This Problem. And I Would Also Like Maybe A Picture Or In Detail How To Change The Following Sensors/ETC.



1.) Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)

2.) Engine Control Temperature Sensor (ECT)

3.) Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)

4.) EGR Valve/Sensor



Now I Am Not Sure But Is The EGR Sensor Or The Valve The Same Or What. Or Any Of The Other Sensors.



THANKS

__________________

Eric RitterBad Gas Mileage And Sensors?
guessing on what your problem is is going to cost you more than taking it to a shop to have it properly diagnosed i dont beliecve these sensors are causing your problem well possibly the mass air flow but thats an expensive part just to replace because your not sure take it too a shop. If these sensors were badthe car would run really bad and you should have a check engine light onBad Gas Mileage And Sensors?
I would suggest have the injectors cleaned. You can go to most shops like jiffy lube to have them do a fuel systems cleaning on it for about $40 or so. I works great. In my s10 that I had i was getting about 9 on a good day, and once I got the fuel systems cleaner, I got about 17Bad Gas Mileage And Sensors?
heres something you can do,that might help.clean out the throttle body.what about the air filter.a dirty air filter can rob you from getting good gas milage.