Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?

96 accord, lx, 4 cylinder, auto. 162,000 miles



I have barely had my car for one year, and have replaced brake pads, rotors, left ball joint, given it a tune-up, had the valves de-carboned and adjusted, and have also replaced the radiator, EGR valve, fuel filter, IAC valve, and ignition coil. when I took it in somewhere to check about a bad sounding brake, they told me the pads are aftermarket, but everything is otherwise fine. However, they said they found a leak at the rear main seal, and have quoted me $840 to fix that. Other shops thought the small oil leak was coming from the oil pan gasket, but these guys did a more specific check on such things.



Anyway, I've paid a ridiculous amount of money to fix this car up. Everyone says the engine and transmission seam to be fine, and that it's a car with a good life ahead of it, but I'm really worried. This is an expensive repair, and I also need to change the timing belt and water pump in the next 10k miles. My struts are also worn, though I hear they can be a home-job. My car has it's quirks, I'm just terrified of having to put more and more money into this thing. I said %26quot;one more repair%26quot; some five repairs ago



How much would it cost to replace the rear main seal? I know a lot of stuff has to be removed to reach it, but the damn part is only $20 and I have a hard time thinking I'd really be paying $820 in labor. Also, I need to know if 162k miles sounds normal for such a repair. I don't know if these things go bad at regular intervals or whether the people who owned the car before me ran it rough (they sure didn't bother to change much!)



I will probably call some shops around and see what they quote, but I'd like to see what other people say as wellCost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
The transmission has to come out to change the seal but still $800 seems like a lot. Get an estimate from independent mechanics. You don't have to go to the dealer. I would consider getting an engine from a salvage yard with less miles on it and many such yards will do the labor and provide the engine for less than $800.



Use has little to do with seal leaking. Seals can dry out and shrink over time due to various factors and start leaking. If the leak isn't bad, maybe you can live with it? Years ago there was a problem with compatibility issues between some synthetic oils and conventional oils and if you used synthetic oil and then switched to conventional it could result in leaking seals. Since your vehicle is 14 years old, who knows? this could be a contributing factor. However the compatibility problem has reportedly been solved for some time and should not be a problem with any name brand oils.



I know this is not a solution but something to consider. Personally If it was me I would seriously consider one of 2 options 1. changing the engine to one with less miles that will not need a timing belt for a while or 2. Giving up on this loss and look for another vehicle.Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
I can't believe this question is considered %26quot;resolved%26quot; with these answers and won't allow me to %26quot;answer%26quot;. Go to a site that specializes in Honda Accords like CB7tuner.com, cb5tuner.com, or HondaHookup and post your question, you will get better answers. The repair probably isn't even necessary.

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Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
(continued)



If the leak is small there's no hurry. And there's no certainty *at all* that the leak derives from the rear main oil seal in the first place as you really can't tell without taking the tranny off. There's no %26quot;diagnostic%26quot; that will tell.



I will agree, do not got to the dealership.

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Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
you are wasting your money on the car it is clearly a lemon and I would not be surprised if either it had been neglected or the mileage is way over what you believe, the leak is more likely from the gasket but topping up with oil is by far the cheapest option

1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?

HELLO!! My car is running rough since a month, I changed plug wires,spark plugs (ngk), air filter, drive belts, engine oil, but it still runs rough! Can my distributor be the reason? How do I test if my distributor is working properly? Does it have any inicial starting position everytime the engine goes on/off? What about the solenoide? Can my solenoide output voltage be the reason? Meaning less spark...?





I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it %26quot;has%26quot; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!



Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?



And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!



Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...



And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine %26quot;stumbles%26quot; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.



If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me

How do I lower my HC to pass emmissions?

I have a 89 Olds Cutlass Ciera that passed everything but NOx at first, 2.75, should be 2, then after I ran fuel injector cleaner through it and then later octane boost, my mechanic happened to find a broken fuse end in my EGR valve and said that could be the reason why it wasn't passing NOx... he couldn't do the test because his machine was down... another guy checked the EGR valve and said it was faulty and that someone must have put the fuse in to bypass it, but I know my mech wouldn't do that... he wanted a high amount(over 500) to change it... so I took it to my wife's cousin's shop where he works, and he said he was pretty sure he could get it to pass for me... NOW the NOx is .09 but the HC is about 3.5 when it should be lower than 0.8, which it was earlier... I remembered I hadn't changed spark plugs or wires in about two years... so if I go get them changed, the HC should pass then right??How do I lower my HC to pass emmissions?
never mind the additives and the cat, do a full tune up and the hcs should drop.How do I lower my HC to pass emmissions?
change the fuel mixture.. that is three gallon of gas to two quarts of menthenol.. and it will pass...How do I lower my HC to pass emmissions?
Also change your cataletic converter. a new converter will give you great emissions results.

My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?

Hi guys I just joined this forum and this is my first post and I really need some HELP.

I have a problem and would like come suggestion on how to fix it.

I have a 1988 Chevy truck with a 4.3 motor and I swaped it out for another 4.3 motor because the other one was no good . I had to take it for a emission test but before I did I changed the oil 'oil filter replaced the plugs' rotor and cap and then took it for the test and it failed.

Here's the reading of the test.



ASM 2525 Curb Idle

Limit Reading Result Limit Reading Result

HC ppm 83 190 FAIL 200 419 FAIL

CO% 0.46 0.95 FAIL 1.00 1.99 FAIL

NO ppm 893 203 PASS N/A N/A N/A

RPM 1296 VALID RPM 582 VALID

Dilution 14.8 VALID Dilution 14.8 VALID



OVERALL TEST RESULTS : FAIL



IT FAILED : So I brought it back home and I took of the EGR valve and checked the ports to make sure they where not cloged and they where clean and I cleaned the EGR valve put it back on. I checked the vacuum line on the EGR valve to make sure it was opening right after idle and checked all other vacuum lines for leaks.I dumped some good throttle body ' valve and combustion chanber cleaner down it and let it site . Then I started it and boy did it ever smoke. I changed the plug wires air filter and pcv valve and took it for another test.



ASM 2525 Curb Idle

Limit Reading Result Limit Reading Result

HC ppm 83 191 FAIL 200 313 FAIL

CO% 0.47 0.58 FAIL 1.00 0.52 PASS

NO ppm 893 172 PASS N/A N/A N/A

RPM 1321 VALID RPM 563 VALID

Dilution 13.4 VALID Dilution 13.2 VALID

OVERALL TEST RESULTS : FAIL

Can anyone give me a suggestion on what to do next.

I checked the timing but I wasn't sure what the timing is suppose to be. I looked in my book but it did not say and I looked on my truck but nothing.

Anyhow I read in the book that the ignition timing cannot be abjusted on 1996 and later SFI engines on a 4.3L v6 engines because it is electronic controled. So what can I do to bring the HC and CO down to make it pass.

Thanks in advance for any HELP.

PS: and I changed the catalytic converter 2 years ago ' I put a universal cat on it and now someone told me that they only last one to two years ' Is that true.My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
LOL, (not at you),

everybody always says replace yhe O2 sensor,

well in this case they would be correct,

if you had a scan tool available you would note the high block learn and integrator numbers,

simply replace the O2 sensor and go pass your test

your welcome in advance,



if you do as I say you will pass!!!!!



change only the O2 sensor, not the cat.,

the egr valve only works to reduce NOX emissions by lowering combustion temperature, the cat helps burn excess hydrocarbon but only to an extent, a good running fuel injected vehicle could pass a HC and CO emission test without a cat, however it would fail in the nitrogen oxide area!!My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
If both HC and CO are high, the vehicle may have a bad catalytic converter or an air pump problem. if you put a new catalytic converter on it prior to swapping motors, the old one probably plugged it up.



Also, you need to make sure that the truck is good and hot prior to the test. The cat is only effective when it's hot.My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
Is running rich, check for loose and/or dirty connectors and like mentioned, the O2 sensor can be reading wrong. By the way... is all stock? Did you changed anything like High Performance? Such as, Exhaust Headers, Performance Chip or any other toy that can throw off the sensor readings?My Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
my trust in bustas here he has bailed me out beforeMy Chevy Truck Failed the Emission Test HELP?
Did you say the timing hasn't been set?

On these it must be set.

There is a wire you disconnect, then a timing light will work.

I am not sure where it is, but I would get the timing set first.

This will cause your emission problems.

4 the mechanics out there, is this possible?

I'm not mechanically inclined, so on here needing advice. I'll try to make this as short as possible, but might be hard, because need to put details in it.



OK, months ago, brought my car in for oil change, a few days before that, my check engine light went on, then next day went off, then next day, went back on. Had it diagnosed and the mechanic told me the code was P0401 (EGR Flow Insufficient). Long story short, a couple of days after that, my engine seized up, so got a used engine put into my car, and picked it up last night. I had a shattered piston and it went all over the inside of my engine, (or something to that fact). The mechanic gave me parts of my piston in a sandwich baggie, in pieces. Anyways, picking up and driving the car last night, i noticed my check engine was back on. I actually forgot about that, but figured it'd still be on even though I got a used engine put in, the check engine going back on was possible, especially after reading up on the P0401 code I was told.



Beside the %26quot;new%26quot; engine, the following new items were installed as well, new radiator cap, plugs, gasket, exhaust gasket, air filter, fuel filter, serp belt, thermostat, thermostat gasket, water pump, lower intake gasket, %26quot;wires%26quot;, egr valve gasket, and a throttle body gasket. All these items are from the receipt.



So was going to get a smog check today, and I needed to have the check engine light off first. Told the mechanic about the replaced engine, and the code I was told months ago. He hooked up the diagnostic machine and the information below was printed out and given to me



Misfire Status - Complete

Fuel Status - Complete

Comprehensive Status - Complete

Catalyst Status - Not Complete

Heated Catalyst Status - Not Available

Evaporative Status - Not Complete

Secondary Air Status - Not Available

AC Status - Not Available

Oxygen Status - Complete

Oxygen Heater Status - Complete

EGR Status - Not Complete



And the codes listed below were found as well

P0401 = EGR Flow Insufficient Detected

P0304 = Cylinder 4 Misfired Detected

P0305 = Cylinder 5 Misfired Detected

P0305 = Cylinder 6 Misfired Detected



Now with a new engine put in, and me not being mechanically inclined, how can I have 3 cylinders misfiring. I've only driven it for about a day now, and it's running great. And if 3 cylinders are misfiring, wouldn't I noticed a reduction in power, or a performance difference, because I'm not. It's running great.



The mechanic cleared them out, and told me to come back after driving about 50 miles to see if the engine light comes back on.



Does this sound right what he told me. The insufficent EGR Flow code makes me wonder why that code would appear again, especially if they put in a new EGR valve, and 3 cylinders misfiring? Could an engine run and sound as good as it does if it has 3 out of 6 cylinders misfiring ?



Not famaliar with the EGR works, but if they put it a new EGR valve, wouldn't this fix the %26quot;EGR CODE P0401%26quot; for insufficient airflow ?4 the mechanics out there, is this possible?
the cylinder misfire codes are an indication of a bad coil pack . the EGR code is probably valid. The tube the EGR connects to can be clogged with carbon build up. Remove it, clean it out and reinstall it and the EGR valve. Should make the problem go away. Replacing the coil pack should make the cylinder misfire go away, provided the plugs and wires are in good shape, and the cylinders have decent compression, especially from a used engine.4 the mechanics out there, is this possible?
You would Notice it. If you don`t see anything out the exhaust you should be ok.4 the mechanics out there, is this possible?
this from history of old engine
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  • 1999 blazer stalling at takeoff?

    only stalled when you punch it until now have changed fuel filter.The service engine soon light came on and took to auto parts says 1 EGR position sensor failed 2 open or shut circuit condition 3 failed egr valve would this cause stalling and how to fix.1999 blazer stalling at takeoff?
    I wish I knew what type of gas your using because it sounds like your using the cheap market gas in your tank.if you want the blazer to act right go to a real gas station and get real gas like chevron but before you get there go to a pharmacy and get 2 bottles of rubbing alcohol at a 92% type and then go to parts store and get some gas treatment 2 bottles and then go to the gas station and dump in all you got and say fill it up with real gas.This will treat the whole fuel system and you'll get better response over a little time.Chevron uses the techron in there fuel which is good in all gas fuel systems.it does some good cleaning even in the combustion chamber.1999 blazer stalling at takeoff?
    vtak incabulator resistor is faulty. go to autozone and ask for a 99 blazer one.1999 blazer stalling at takeoff?
    yes this would cause the vehicle to stall. All EGR valves need to be replaced so it will stop stalling on you.

    Bad Gas Mileage And Sensors?

    I Am Having The Following Problem...



    I Have A 1991 Chevy S-10 Pickup, 2.8 V6, 2WD, Manual Transmission. I Am Really Getting Bad gas Mileage 7MPG. I Put A New O2 Sensor, Fuel Filter, Thermostat, Spark Plugs/Wires, Air Filter, And I Believe Thats It. I Would Like Any Info Why I Am Having This Problem. And I Would Also Like Maybe A Picture Or In Detail How To Change The Following Sensors/ETC.



    1.) Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)

    2.) Engine Control Temperature Sensor (ECT)

    3.) Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)

    4.) EGR Valve/Sensor



    Now I Am Not Sure But Is The EGR Sensor Or The Valve The Same Or What. Or Any Of The Other Sensors.



    THANKS

    __________________

    Eric RitterBad Gas Mileage And Sensors?
    guessing on what your problem is is going to cost you more than taking it to a shop to have it properly diagnosed i dont beliecve these sensors are causing your problem well possibly the mass air flow but thats an expensive part just to replace because your not sure take it too a shop. If these sensors were badthe car would run really bad and you should have a check engine light onBad Gas Mileage And Sensors?
    I would suggest have the injectors cleaned. You can go to most shops like jiffy lube to have them do a fuel systems cleaning on it for about $40 or so. I works great. In my s10 that I had i was getting about 9 on a good day, and once I got the fuel systems cleaner, I got about 17Bad Gas Mileage And Sensors?
    heres something you can do,that might help.clean out the throttle body.what about the air filter.a dirty air filter can rob you from getting good gas milage.

    !!!!!!please someone help with my car!!!!!!!!?

    alright,1993 oldsmobile cutlass SUPREME 3.1...the car has no patterns really but when driving it (when it wants) the rpms lets say will be at 3 grand and it will start bouncing below like its tring to stall but not at high rpms,give it some gas and it'll stop for a second then start again it will do it at low rpms too.and lately it has wanted to stall out at a stop,but not all the time,i have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs and wires,and and oil change...My car was throwing a code for o2 sensor,egr valve,iac...so i took the egr valve and cleaned it inside and out it was pretty bad,noticed that going into the plentum that the hole was almost closed shut with carbon so i decided to take the plentum off and clean all of it inside,put it back on and cleared the memory.and dumped as instructed some sea foam in the booster and the tank, the car seems to run alot smoother and the codes are not signaling anything,drove it around and it started doing it again just not as bad,but runs smoother.My mechanic says that he thinks it is the module,maybe a coil pack.can anyone tell me what their opinions are.if it is one of the two which 1 would be most likely the culprit,and or how do i check to see,cause if its not acting up seems that you couldn't check it.i have a voltage meter,i am going to check the plugs and wires in the morning to see if the egr and intake made the plugs foul out...sorry for such a long story but figured if i told all then it could eliminate any question..thanx in advance!!!!!!please someone help with my car!!!!!!!!?
    I would agree it's the ignitor module or coil primaries and/or circuits. This is why it effects your tacho.



    I've even known faulty tachos back feed into a primary circuit to cause a misfire.!!!!!!please someone help with my car!!!!!!!!?
    I'd check your plugs and engine wires first. Check your hosing to make sure there are no holes anywhere. Whats the battery like? I can't help you too much with modules. Could be a radiator issue? What have you done with that?!!!!!!please someone help with my car!!!!!!!!?
    sounds like a faulty mass air flow sensor so the ecu is not able to give the right amount of fuel through the injectors or a faulty throttle position switch!!!!!!please someone help with my car!!!!!!!!?
    Check the throttle position sensor.!!!!!!please someone help with my car!!!!!!!!?
    Your fuel Pump is going. Sometimes they go all at once, sometimes it takes a while especially if you use gas tretment. Will eat electric fuel pumps up.

    My suburban has a running rough issue!?

    1992 chevy suburban 5.7 4x4.. k1500 automatic trans.

    My suv runs rough on the freeways for some reason. When it's cold it runs great, lots of power and no issues. After it warms up and I am cruising on the freeway it starts cutting out and acts like a misfire. When I punch the throttle it smooths out and has power again.



    It also occasionally stalls out when shifting from park to forward or reverse, and it only happens when the motor is warmed up.



    My first thoughts are fuel filter and egr system. I am gonna change the filter anyway but i would like to know how to test the egr valve and the egr solenoid to see if they are both functioning ok.My suburban has a running rough issue!?
    What kind of fuel delivery system do you have ? Do you have a throttle body , fuel ejection ? carb ? do not have car to look at. worst case take to shop let them find the problem and you repair !My suburban has a running rough issue!?
    typically, running rough after warm up would point to a vacuum leak regardless of your specific fuel delivery system.

    How many Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors are on the 1992 Ford 2.3L Ranger and where are they located?

    This vehicle has excessive miles and the coolant sensors have never been changed. The vehicle is having driveabiltiy problems such as a %26quot;lean%26quot; miss which seems to occur about 75% of the time. The %26quot;check engine%26quot; light is on but I have the EGR Valve blocked off at the throttle body; thinking earlier that it was causing the %26quot;LEAN%26quot; problem...it wasn't responsible...no improvement since that alteration.How many Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors are on the 1992 Ford 2.3L Ranger and where are they located?
    There is one on the drivers side of the cylinder head, about midway between the front and back of the engine. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks (especially the brake booster).

    Usually if the temp sensor goes bad, it causes an overly rich condition, but it's possible that it could make it run lean.How many Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors are on the 1992 Ford 2.3L Ranger and where are they located?
    i know one is located on electric fan, but for others im not sure. hope this helps.How many Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors are on the 1992 Ford 2.3L Ranger and where are they located?
    temp sensor for the computer is located top of engine near thermostat housing

    there is a sensor for the gauge too.

    radiator cooling sensor or switch.

    you might check the pcv and while your at the throttle body check the iac. clean all connections corrosion is a possibilityHow many Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors are on the 1992 Ford 2.3L Ranger and where are they located?
    2. one on the head passenger side below radiator hose. one middle ways on block on passenger sideHow many Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors are on the 1992 Ford 2.3L Ranger and where are they located?
    On those things, I wouldn't worry about the ECT causing your problems as I would the ACT and the B/MAP...





    ACT is a air charge Temp sensor that measures intake air temperature and get caked with oil over the miles.



    The B/Map measures the Barometric pressure (altitiude) and intake Vacuum pressure while running.. IF it screws up, both will casue headaches.





    But I had a miss in a 89 ranger with a 2.3 that came to be a set of bad plug wires, and a cut wire going to the crank position sensor..



    Check all of those things first.. But please post the codes next time...



    If you don't know how to retreive, look up reading codes on a EEC IV vehicle.How many Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors are on the 1992 Ford 2.3L Ranger and where are they located?
    I'd reconnect the EGR. Clear the PCM memory by disconnecting the battery for 30 or more seconds, and then let the PCM tell you exactly what is wrong with your car.



    These cars had OBD-I, which are not as complete as OBD-II introduced in 1996. But they still will detect and indicate if, for instance, your ect or act sensor is open or short.



    OBD-I also had on demand diagnostics that actually ran a suite of tests, like open and short circuits, at idle.



    You can actually run the on demand test by shorting a certain wire, and read the %26quot;codes%26quot; on your instrument panel which blinks out a code. it is easier with an OBD-I scan tool, which now, so many years later, you might be able to pick up cheap on E-Bay.



    To see how I'd search the web for %26quot;OBD-I Ford%26quot;. You can also find out this is some Chiltons type literature. Its been too long for me to give you the details but I know it was possible.
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  • Fuel pressure regulator and BAD fuel mileage?

    My 1987 Bronco ll 4x4 is only getting about 8-10 miles to the gallon!I posted on the Bronco site where the average mileage acording to those owners is 18-26 mpg!You can literally watch it suck gas, ate up almost a quarter tank on a 30 mile trip to work tonight.The suggestion was a failing fuel regulator or leaky injectors.I dont smell gas though.The only thing i smell is oil from the valve cover gaskets.It sounds great.I do hear what sounds like a sputtering when i accelerate (vacuum?) but that could just be the engine.You do have to push it a little before it catches on the highway and it hard shifts but im in the process of changing the filthy fluid thats been sitting in it.It hadnt been driven it a couple years.I just put a new cat converter,major tune up,EGR valve and cleaned ports,oxygen sensot, map sensor %26amp; both fuel filters and o-ring- the canister was missing.I know it needs an air flow idle sensor,what could this be?What is the labor on a regulator?How easy is it to check?Fuel pressure regulator and BAD fuel mileage?
    I had one go bad on my Ford Ranger pickup, yes, it used alot of fuel. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace, however, you need a gauge to check fuel pressure that most home mechanics do not have.Fuel pressure regulator and BAD fuel mileage?
    better put the canister back on.what about plugs and wires,did you change the cap and rotor.check all vaccum hoses for leaks.put a vaccum tester on it and also check the fuel pump regulator,it could be letting too much gas to come into the injectors and burning raw gas.that would be enough to make it hessitate.

    1991 truck unable to run?

    I have a 1991 Chevy Silverado 4 wheel drive.truck died unable to start, changed tbi,computer,distributor,map sensor,egr valve, starts up now but running really rich,and rough. doesn't idle and pops.smell of gas is everywhere and is just swollowing the fuel.Check engine light is on unable to clear. Don't know what to do. Heard that computer codes needs to be cleared How???? Please help and advise. ready to burn the truck.

    dale.cordeiro@yahoo.com1991 truck unable to run?
    Okay, you may need to give the truck into repairs. Fixing it by yourself may make it worse :(1991 truck unable to run?
    sounds like your truck might of jumped time ,or you got some sour fuel in tank.to clear code ,pull ecm fuse or disconect battery cable for a few minutes1991 truck unable to run?
    sounds like you have a clogged fuel filter or fuel pump is wearing out and not enough pressure. the gas is just running out of the injectors not spraying out as it should. always try the cheaper parts instead of going to the more expensive parts first. fuel filter is anywhere from 5 to 12 bux. alot of the times its these cheaper parts that will cause a system to fail.



    also to reset the comp. you need to turn the key into the %26quot;on%26quot; position and firmly tap the brakes three times.

    do this three times and it should clear it.1991 truck unable to run?
    You can clear the codes by simply unhooking the battery cable for about 15 seconds up until 1995. But if you have a serious problem the code will just come right back. Check the vacuum port coming off the back of the throttle body going to the map sensor. The metal tube in the TBI is bad to clog up restricting vacuum to the map sensor and will cause severe rich burn problems. It should have manifold vacuum at idle.1991 truck unable to run?
    custom 10 is right on how to clear the codes. i would say the computer is receiving the wrong signal and dumping too much gas into it. what codes show up?, it might be the 02 sensor giving the wrong signal back to the computer.

    94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?

    I need some help from someone who knows what they are talking about and please don't waste my time by telling me to junk the car. I am mechaniclly inclined but still need some help.

    Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.

    Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.

    What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?

    If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
    First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
    blocked exhaust

    bad mass air flow sensor

    bad ect sensor

    engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat

    low fuel pressure94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
    How about the Oxygen sensors?

    I have a question about my car?

    what all can a vacuum leak cause?my car,sometimes will hessitate from starting out from a stop light.i changed the gas filter and the fuel pump is good.i seem to have a small vacuum leak,where my egr valve bolts down.i got both gaskets,1 on where the plate bolts down on the intake and the other 1,where the egr valve bolts to it.are they very hard to change?i had to order them from auto zone and ill get them tomarrow,but all needed to know how hard it was to change both gaskets?thanks guys.I have a question about my car?
    very easy to change...just make sure you squirt the bolts down with a penetrating oil about an hour before you are going to do this...It will help free up the bolts for removal. Vacuum leaks can cause rough idle poor gas mileage and hesitationI have a question about my car?
    What kind of car? Many only have 2 bolts and are very easy to change. Be sure to clean the mating surface well before installing the new one.



    If there is a hole in the EGR, that could be causing a vacuum leak. I would have to see it.I have a question about my car?
    Vacuum leaks can range from very minor, almost unnoticeable, to severe that can cause extreme lean conditions and burn valves, pistons, etc...



    The answer to the EGR question depends - what vehicle/engine are we talking about??I have a question about my car?
    Not sure how to change them, but the nature of EGR is to recirculate exhaust gasses, that dont burn btw. if you have a vaccuum leak there, it should keep the valve closed, either way, if you suspect that system, it will cause the symptoms your describeI have a question about my car?
    A scanner attached to your OBD-II connector under your steering wheel will tell the technician whether your long and short term fuel trim are normal. If not, you could have a vacuum leak which causes a lean air fuel mixture condition and hesitation when accelerating.I have a question about my car?
    use proper spanners (wrenches), not some old adjustable. A socket or a ring is best. be careful to tighten the bolts just right, not so tight that the plate warps. (use the torque setting from the shop manual)

    How do you determine that a car is a lemon?

    ok i bought my car 09/05 from a dealership. its a 1998 pontiac grand prix gt and it was $6,200. well since then i've had to put over $3,500 in repairs to it.



    -egr valve

    -belts

    -window motors (both stopped working)

    -new wiper motor/relay (also stopped working)

    -mass air flow sensor

    -new weather stripping stuff by wipers

    -struts

    -tires

    -brakes

    -air conditioning

    -oil changes, radiator flushs, normal stuff...



    also i still have to get the fans fixed b/c whenever i turn my heat on they squeal and its annoying, and when my heats on it smells horrible.



    no one else i know has ever put that much $$ into a car in less than 2 years.

    i bought it from a good dealership it's not like its from a buy here pay here.

    also it had 70,00 mi. when i bought it.How do you determine that a car is a lemon?
    the lemon law is that it has to have 5 MAJOR things go wrong with it within 1 year of purchase of a new car. You will have to have proof of this by dealer only repairs to your vehicle. The %26quot;small%26quot; repairs will be under new car warrantee. Since you bought a used car then you are screwed. The old saying of %26quot;caviot emptor%26quot; buyer beware. Just be sure to tell ALL of your friends and family not to buy anything from this dealer, as he probably knew the car was in this bad of condition. His mechanics will look over the vehicle when it was brought in then they will determine how much to fix to keep the car running long enough to resell it. If this a reputable dealer then he might refund some of your money since this car was in bad shape and he knew it.How do you determine that a car is a lemon?
    Most of the time a lemon is determined from it having to go into the shop for the same problem 3 times within a certain amount of time, and the problem never being taken care of, but I think the lemon laws are different from state to state.How do you determine that a car is a lemon?
    some you win some you lose. cut your losses and get rid of itHow do you determine that a car is a lemon?
    It looks like no one did any maintenance on this car while they owned it. In other words, it is a well used car.

    The previous owners just put gas in it and that was it....and drive it into the ground. %26quot;Could have been a rental.%26quot;

    The dealership ain't about to put money into it if they can sell it. Silicone and turtle wax is enough.

    All the things you mentioned are items that wear and would have to be replaced if you owned the car from day one. Except in your case you would have done it piece by piece...over the long haul.

    It is a matter of inspecting the car before you buy it - even from a dealer. Used is used=it is up to you to determine %26quot;how used is it%26quot;.

    There is no major part here like engine, transmission or rear end.How do you determine that a car is a lemon?
    As stated before the LEMON law only applies to newly purchased vehicles, or vehicles that were relatively newly purchased (ie very late model.)



    Most of the items you've named are wear items (tires, brakes, struts, etc) though some cars wear faster than others. The window motors are notoriously failure prone in GM vehicles (my brother's Camaro spent 5 minutes rolling up the windows.) Its odd that the MAF went out that soon, but its not unheard of.



    If its running fine now I'd say keep driving it, but if it starts to give you problems considering selling it a purchasing something else. Some cars are just money pits. Consider purchasing a Japanese car on your next go round, you will still need to fix stuff but they tend to break with a few more miles on them than the others do.
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  • How much money do you think it would be to tune-up my car?

    My car is a 1993 Corolla 1.8L? I changed the catalytic converter. It is also a Canada Model so it doesn't have a EGR valve.How much money do you think it would be to tune-up my car?
    ABOUT 225 MAJOR TUNE UP PLUGS,CAP ROTOR (IF EQUIPPED)PCV VALVE FUEL FILTER.

    89.00 MINOR TUNE UP JUST REPLACING SPARK PLUGS.How much money do you think it would be to tune-up my car?
    OK here what to do if your not doing it your self which you could do most easy.. you call a few places and ask them how much doe a tuneup cost go with three places you will get a good answer... the oldest place that works on car would be the smartest place to go since they have been doing it the longest better.... dont call any dealers.. and learn how to do it yourself ... yes even tho you might not want to do the job it can save you money knowing how its done helps keep you from being taken.... do it your self simple plugs about 3 buck each one at a time some you dont get wires cross new air filter 5 bucks..... you about done... could change the wise get a new cap and rotor button and gas filter most are all do able at home......... so do some reading here and learn how if not know how

    How exactly is the best way to remove Catalytic Converter?

    I have decided to remove the Catalytic Converter on my 1995 Ford Escort 1.9L Auto hatchback. When i get it off, it is going to be tested to see: 1) What the engine does (it isnot seized oroverheated but it had exhaust gases backing up so im gonna see where it remains, it sounded bad like a sawzall the last time it did run, but it did run) and 2) how the Cat looks and what to do with it.



    The remedy to the cat will be one of the three: 1) Drilling it out and putting it back on, 2) putting a pipe where it was and leaving it off, 3) fitting a universal Cat. I am not concerned with inspection until it comes time i can have one put on right, this is the no-money get-the-car-to-run repair. (If the engine couldnt breathe to cause the sawzall sopund, it should get power and not die when the gas is pressed like it was doing. Fuel Pump is not it, andthe next suspect is Cat. -Then- we look at Timing and plugs.) I am not concerned w the Cat being 'legal' only 'working' until i can revisit it just before an inspection.



    So i do wonder what the best way to remove itis. The options range from Blowtorching (scrapyard style, cars on forklifts) to sawzalling (welding back on in either case, they do it and just cover the fuel lines) to removing the blots. One guy wants to remove body pieces to get to it, since it may be rusted. I would like to know the best/easiest method to remove, this is a Mobile Mechanic situation. It just is. Im wondering so we can do it the best.



    Also, how do i clear Code 0182, which my car has? And that means Exhaust or EGR, yes?



    And is it easy to change liftersor valves in an engine? Yes? No?



    Thank you for the info. This is a serious question, i accept my 91 Escort S.W. Is all blowed up w no radiator or engine (although someone suggested the lifters may have collased and it may go right after.) Im looking forward to the answers, i want to get my car (95) back good. Strut being put back on this weekend.



    I still wantObama to buy me a new car. It happened on his highway, the rot cause. State Police can find where the reflector was rammed out the road by the Semis low pressure tire if they looked. Im sure somewherein the $1700hundredthousand million Monopoly Oney budget it says 'Residentsof Ohio have $33.6 Billion allocated for defective cars, under the promis pe to Save the Environment by getting everyone a Prius anda Jetta TDI.' Think about it. :)



    Thanks, im ready to do the Cat. Conv. Thing w people this weekend. I await your answers.



    Sincerely, - JosephHow exactly is the best way to remove Catalytic Converter?
    Some people have been known to cut the pipe behind the converter then take a long steel pipe and ram it into the converter,breaking away the honeycomb structure.When then started,the exhaust gasses blow out the debris and it is then clear.

    This is done for testing a restricted exhaust and may be illegal for highway operation.

    --------------------------------------?br>
    Geez,Take it easy Talon.How exactly is the best way to remove Catalytic Converter?
    is why they have muffler shops most are now welded on so you have to have a cutting torch or a hack saw the rest you can buy at parts storesHow exactly is the best way to remove Catalytic Converter?
    they are welded on so you have to cut them off and weld a new 1 back on.How exactly is the best way to remove Catalytic Converter?
    The one thing everyone forgot to mention in their answers was the fine that goes along with taking the catalytic converter off the last I heard it was up around 500 bucks if you get caught without one

    I have a 96 Saturn SL1 and I keep hearing a pinging noise that I would like to know how to get rid of.?

    I already did an oil change, and my mechanic told me that it's probably my egr valve. Does anyone have any alternatives to this, or know a cheaper way to fix this problem? My car makes the pinging noise around 2500 rpms while accelerating.I have a 96 Saturn SL1 and I keep hearing a pinging noise that I would like to know how to get rid of.?
    The answer is not changing your fuel. If they diagnosed you vehicle with the need for an EGR valve, I recommend a EGR Valve. However, If you remove the EGR valve and clean the carbon from it it may cure the concern temporairly.



    I say you car could probably use a complete tune up also...



    Spark Plugs

    Wires

    PCV Valve



    These things will help some also.



    Good LuckI have a 96 Saturn SL1 and I keep hearing a pinging noise that I would like to know how to get rid of.?
    i bet it is improper grade of fuel, try a lower octane



    check your owners manual for proper grade to be using



    if that doesnt work then have the ignition timing checked, could be a bad crank sensor in which is one sensor that helps control timingI have a 96 Saturn SL1 and I keep hearing a pinging noise that I would like to know how to get rid of.?
    fuel quality, try a HIGHER octane . i would change mechanics while i was at it tooI have a 96 Saturn SL1 and I keep hearing a pinging noise that I would like to know how to get rid of.?
    You more than likely burn some oil. The oil that gets up into your combustion chambers leaves carbon deposits on the heads and piston tops. This carbon gets hot and pre-ignites your fuel charge, and causes the pinging you describe. There may be a fuel additive that you can add to clean out your engine, but most of those don't work very well. You can get by for now by using a higher octane gas, but it won't fix the problem. You're probably looking at an engine rebuild eventually.

    Chevy S-10 idle control valve ?

    I have a 1997 S-10 that will die after starting the engine. It will restart but only run if you continue to give it some gas. Sometimes I start it and the engine revs until finally settling down to what apprears to be normal. It mignt run fine one time and not the next. Just this last week it ran good for a few miles and then died everytime I had to come to a stop. It is not a fuel pump because if it was the truck wouldn't start at all. All the filters are new and it doesn't need a tune up. I've been told it could be the idle control valve and/or an EGR valve that is sticking. Does anyone know where these two parts are and how to change them.Chevy S-10 idle control valve ?
    the EGR valve works the pollution control, and is located on a rail on the side of the motor. the idle control is called an AIS (automatic idler sensor) that's located under the carburetor and is connected to a plug that is attached to the throttle body on the carb. chances are its the AIS that's no good any more and should be replaced. take the vehicle to a shop and have them put it on a dionostic equiptment and let them check it.Chevy S-10 idle control valve ?
    It is the EGR valve, it is on the top of the intake manifold, driver side. You can remove this, and clean the piston in the valve, BUT, if you are not a MISS Goodwrench, then take to the Chevrolet dealer, and pay for the professionals to replace the valve.

    Egr insufficient flow 97' monte carlo 3.1 V6 LS?

    I purchased a 97' monte carlo about 3 months ago i have gave it one oil change since I have owned the car. Everything ran great on it until recently. I was going about 60-65mph and it started like skipping in a way back and forth like it didn't want to go and i had to push the gas down more to make it stop. The check engine light came on and said egr insufficient flow. Also when i would push on the gas it would make a loud sound not normal. So I went and bought a EGR valve for my car. And it still did the back anf forth thing so do i need to clean out the pipe or something that is connected to the egr valve or what do i do. How do i clean it...with what? Now when i push on my gas it doesn't sound as loud and it sound normal. Also my anti lock is showing does that mean i need new brakes please help before my car goes. thank youEgr insufficient flow 97%26039; monte carlo 3.1 V6 LS?
    Pull your air intake tube off your throttle body, then open the throttle plate. You more than likely will find your upper intake plenum coated in black carbon. If that is the case, remove the EGR where it bolts to the back of the plenum, and take a round wire brush to the port that goes through the upper plenum. Clear out as much carbon as you can and spray out the bottom of the EGR with carb cleaner. Put it all back together and then pull the PCV hose off the PCV valve and have someone keep the car running while you empty a can of carb cleaner through the PCV hose. This will clean out your cumbustion chamber. Drive it on the highway for about 30 minutes when you are done. It should fix this very well known common problem for you. You may want to replace the EGR gasket if you remove the EGR. Hope this helps, hasn't failed yet. I am doing my 3.4 engine tonight.
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  • How do I use Sea Foam in my 1995 Frod Probe?

    The engine compression is high, which is a sign of carbon build up, especially since I have a faulty EGR valve. How do I use SeaFoam to decarbon it? When do I need to change the oil after doing it? If I don't run the SeaFoam trough the crank, then do I still need to change the oil?How do I use Sea Foam in my 1995 Frod Probe?
    If you don't run it through the crank or if you do run it through, you don't have to change the oil in either case. It doesn't hurt to leave it in with the oil, it's made to clean the insde of the engine .Make sure that you use the right can of sea foam, they also make one just for the transmission , the other one can be used in the fuel or engine oil.

    I'm so frustrated! My car won't run and they keep getting it wrong!?

    Please bare with me. I know this is long but I really need some expert opinions here....

    I'd been having trouble with my car running rough, trying to stall and light bucking when I'd be accelerating. I broke down and the mechanic I've been going to for 8 yrs performed a repair charging me $215 and some change. He said the EGR valve was broken so he replaced it and I should be good. Well, it wasn't good. The problem is still there and now it's at a point where the car won't start most of the time....and if I DO get it started, I have to hold my foot on the gas all the way to the floor for about 4 minutes while it spits and sputters to life. On Friday I broke down across town. When I finally got it started, I drove straight to my mechanic's shop to have him check it out once again since I'm still having the same problem. Now they're telling me %26quot;looks like you need the ignition wire and a coil%26quot;. He said he sprayed it with something (I think a lubricant) and I should be good to go for a while. They were closing so we made an appointment for Tuesday for me to come back there so they could check it out further and see what it needed. I left there and went on to where I was supposed to be at the time. Two hours later I went to my car to head home and it wouldn't start. It wouldn't do anything. No clicks, nothing... no sound when I turned the key. By this time the shop was closed until Monday morning. I tried it several times over a period of about 30 minutes. Same thing every time.... no clicks or anything. Then all of a sudden it just started normally when I turned the key. I drove it home, noticing how bad it was running. It felt like it was really working hard to run and it was still doing the light bucking whenever I was accelerating. I got home and parked in the garage and it's been there ever since, because it hasn't started again since. Now I'm frustrated cuz I've already paid him so much money for a repair that didn't fix the car as the problem's gotten worse, and he wants to repair something else that it %26quot;looks like it may be%26quot;. Listen... I've been unemployed since October and have been doing everything I can just to keep a roof over my head....BUT I need the car in order to get a job. Everyone in my life is telling me I need to demand my money back on the first repair or at least have them discount it off the new repair. I just don't know what to think. It just seems like they're grasping at straws, but this is at my expense and I can't afford it. Like I said though... I need the car so I have to get it fixed somehow. I'm just not a good negotiator when it comes to this kind of thing.... or would that be debator? I don't know... I just know I don't do confrontations well. Any suggestions on how to handle this? AND does anyone maybe have some insite as to what the problem could be if it wasn't the EGR valve?



    Thanks in advance to all that read and all that answer...I%26039;m so frustrated! My car won%26039;t run and they keep getting it wrong!?
    A little more info like make model and year would help. But... A sticking egr will cause the bucking stalling. From what you describe now an ignition module can very well be the cause. The no start, the runs rough, can all be attributed to that. There are a few simple tests that can be done to verify if its working. The only problem is that often the cars seem to fix themselves while at the shop and as soon as you leave alone with the car they act up again. I dont know why that is but any mechanic will tell you as well. The reason I ask about the make, model, year is that sometimes a customer will bring in a vehicle that is either old and worn out or newer and never serviced. As a result I have to fix several problems to actually fix the %26quot;one%26quot; problem they have brought the vehicle in for. It's possible that both item were bad on your vehicle. As the consumer you have the right to either deny the mechanics recommended repairs and if you do agree to them you can ask for your old parts back. Also $215 bucks for diagnostics, parts, and labor is not a bad price. I know that often customers feel like they are getting taken advantage of but I regularly see vehicles that need a tune up before I even begin performing a repair. But you cant really expect a customer to pay that cost and then let you diagnose a repair. I am not saying that there are no crooked mechanics but you really dont last long in business like that (unless your the dealership).I%26039;m so frustrated! My car won%26039;t run and they keep getting it wrong!?
    My mechanic has the car now and I'm waiting to hear ... but after reading answers here and doing a little research on my own I'm thinking we're heading in the right direction even WITH the EGR valve replacement. Thanks all for your help :)



    Piggy36 :)

    Report Abuse

    I%26039;m so frustrated! My car won%26039;t run and they keep getting it wrong!?
    You really need to post what model car it is... $215 for an EGR replacement is quite a bit..I%26039;m so frustrated! My car won%26039;t run and they keep getting it wrong!?
    Take it to a different repair shop for a second opinion.



    Small claims court if you feel %26amp; have proof of improper repairs.I%26039;m so frustrated! My car won%26039;t run and they keep getting it wrong!?
    well your garage guy sounds like a hack he should have ran a system scan for trouble codes it sounds like electrical to me seeing as it wouldnt even turn over maybe a couple different problems but i dont think it is one trouble code can set off a chain of events causing more problems that aren't really whats wrong what u can do for a bit of self investigation is if u can get it running go to autozone or a place like that and ask if they can run a scan on it they usually do for free and they will give you the codes that come up then u will have to research what each code means that will lead you the cause yes you will most likely get several and not all parts will be bad then you find a garage with good mechanics that care about there work and ask them dont promise ne work cuz they maybe shady just ask and talk to other garages get as much information you can the more same answers the more likely you found the problem. i cant say whats wrong with it to many possibility to guess at but that should lead you to a solution.I%26039;m so frustrated! My car won%26039;t run and they keep getting it wrong!?
    The best thing to do is have it put on a scope! Either drive it or tow it to a shop that will diagnose the exact problem. Tell them your situation and tell them you know a guy that can fix it if you can figure out whats wrong! Don't let on that your dumping it off on them to %26quot;do whatever it takes%26quot; to get it running. Using a hand held scanner will list any number of trouble codes. But just one sensor, switch, solenoid, etc., etc. that is bad can affect the entire operation of other parts of your car. Thus another trouble code appears on your scanner telling you that this part is not working properly either. If you have the means to do it I would do the basic things myself. Check for spark, check for gas, check the compression and clear the trouble codes and start over. I recently dealt with a Pontiac where I thought it was a fuel problem. Then I was told the ignition module could be bad. I tested both of these things out myself. Nope neither one! Turns out I should have thought of basic mechanics, because the motor was shot! No compression on 1 cyl., low on another, and the other 2 were barely o.k.

    Where is the purge valve on my 95 Ford Ranger 4cyl, 5speed?

    I get code 1443 on my engine that says purge valve although I am told it could be an EGR on my older truck. How hard is this to change?Where is the purge valve on my 95 Ford Ranger 4cyl, 5speed?
    if you have the EGR type , it will be a coffe can looking thing under the hood by the right headlight area. very easy to change , just disconnect the hoses on top and should be two screws on the bottom of it mounting it to the truck. purge valve type is mounted on the intake manifold. also easy to change.Where is the purge valve on my 95 Ford Ranger 4cyl, 5speed?
    it probably has something to do with the evap gas return system, clean itWhere is the purge valve on my 95 Ford Ranger 4cyl, 5speed?
    the purge valve is about as big as a cigarette lighter and will be on either fender panels, not sure which side if you know where the vapor canister is then follow the vacuum hose from it and you will find the valve, it has a line in and a line out make sure you point it in the right direction

    Car Problems.. dont know where to start?

    02 Dodge intrepid 2.7L





    Ok so I've had recent problems with my erg valve because it was staying open instead of opening only on load.. so i changed the whole egr valve.. and that didnt do anything... so next i tried changing the engine computer... and still nothing



    when electrical plug to the egr valve is in... the engine starts to shake.. and doesnt run smoothly... and i have no idea how to fix it...



    also 2 of my cylinders dont seem to be working at all times... so instead of running on 6.. it runs on 4... but i know the cylinders work.. it tested them.. by switching them with others.. they work.. so do the spark plugs.... I dono what to do at this point... I know its an electrical problem... but i have no idea what now... the check engine light is on.. therefore i cant pass the emmisions test... gahhhh



    anyone have any ideas on this?Car Problems.. dont know where to start?
    Throttle control position sensor, check to see if your car has that?Car Problems.. dont know where to start?
    The check engine light being on doesn't necessarily mean you wont pass emissions. My check engine light is always on, because you had to turn it off through my factory installed cd player, and I had it replaced. You have to turn it off somewhere under the hood(which I dont know how to do), but anyways, I still pass inspection even with it on, because I do not actually have an emisisons problem.

    With the jerking thing, that happened to me too. an dit was my transmission! Hopefully its not that. Myabe those type of laws on emission vary drastically from state to state then.Car Problems.. dont know where to start?
    it could be bad fuel fuel injectors. they will make the engine run like that. sometimes they will work and sometimes they wont and other times the car will idle fine but run like crap once you hit the gas.Car Problems.. dont know where to start?
    Here's an idea. Why not save yourself a lot of guesswork and expense and just have the engine analyzed on a diagnostic scope? Average diagnostic fees are about $85 but it will save you a whole lot of aggravation and the expense of changing parts to locate the problem by trial and error.

    What's wrong with my 2003 Impala?

    My 2003 Impala shifts hard! Also when I come to a stop it starts to choke and die, same thing when I am going uphill (only when I am going slow, like turning a corner to go uphill). The engine code says that it's the EGR Valve, but I've replaced it, and it still is doing the same thing. Also last week I gave my car a major tune up:



    Changed spark plugs and wires

    Changed air filter

    Changed fuel filter

    Changed Oil/Filter

    Changed Trans Fluid/Filter

    Changed PCV Valve

    Flushed Radiator

    I also added Lucas Transmission Fix, didn't help.



    I've heard that you can run Seafoam through the Vacuum line. Would this help? And how do you do it?What%26039;s wrong with my 2003 Impala?
    done everything...how about a wash and wax? have you looked for a vacuum leak? spraying along hoses with wd40 see if idle changes



    fuel pump????What%26039;s wrong with my 2003 Impala?
    Take it to the certified mechanic before you change everything else in the car.What%26039;s wrong with my 2003 Impala?
    make sure you have the correct amount of fluid in the transmission then go for a drive with the car at operating temp. if it still shifts hard look for a vacuum line that came off the trans where your shift module is. otherwise take it to a trany shop.
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  • Vacuum switching valve??????????

    I've heard that rough idle, bad mpg, and pour engine performance can come from the egr system that needs cleaning and a bad vacuum switching valve. Is it hard to change the vacuum switching valve and clean the egr system myself or would i have to get a mechanic to do it. How much are replacement parts?



    any info appreciated



    Is it hard to cleanVacuum switching valve??????????
    Vehicle make, model and year.

    Give us a hint?



    The vacuum control valve can be easily tested for proper operation and leaks - the EGR valve is 14 years old - you can try cleaning it, but you'd probably be better off simply replacing it if it's not operating properly.

    I have an 1987 Ford F150 that needs a tune up and more?

    The 87 Ford F150 is a 2WD 4.9L in-line 6 manuel trans with dual tank. I changed the oil and oil filter, replaced the wiper motor with used part (mine was slow and stopping), new wipers, replaced the power booster with used part (mine had vacuum leak)(also this one is a little bigger then old one was), replaced bad seal in RR axle and added new gear oil, replaced 90% of brake lines because of rusty and broke when bleeding brakes (all clean brake Fluid now in lines), replaced center drag link (mine was egged and loose steering), replaced seals in steering for leaking, and added clamps to leaf springs (old ones broke or missing). I am not sure what else is need to do a tune up. I see and know of new spark plug wires and dis. cap. New starter and starter solenoid. The truck is running rich with black spitting out exhaust pipe. Have to change the valve cover gasket because of leaking oil as well as oil pan gasket. For oil pan gasket can i use the liquid gasket on it or buy a gasket? Please help me with my truck. How do i test the EGR valve also? Thank you!!I have an 1987 Ford F150 that needs a tune up and more?
    try to check it out first on auto repair shop..I have an 1987 Ford F150 that needs a tune up and more?
    I think you may have spent more than the truck is worth, but I think I can help with the brake light problem.



    The switch for the brake light is inside near the top of the pedal. As the pedal is mashed, the switch contact makes and the lights come on. there is normally an adjusting nut to set the plunger closer to the pedal in full released position. you need to adjust so that there is about the double distance of a matchbook cover between the plunger and the pedal. This should allow the lights to come on as soon as any pressure is placed on the pedal.I have an 1987 Ford F150 that needs a tune up and more?
    sounds like a vaccuum leak causing the richness and that produces the black smoke. check power booster for leaks or disconnected line.

    have someone press brakes while you listen near booster for sounds of air leak. if no check other vaccuum lines by carefully spraying carb cleaner on all lines and if you hear a change in engine idle while doing this then the leak is in that area.

    also adjust brake light switch.

    I am looking into buying a 1990 Bronco with a 5.8L engine and need help.?

    The seller says it needs smogged and he thinks it's the EGR valve. When it is cold it runs fine but when it warms up it cuts out. Does this sound right? Also how difficult is it to change the EGR? I know in my Thunderbird it is pretty hard to get to. Thanks in advance for the help.I am looking into buying a 1990 Bronco with a 5.8L engine and need help.?
    I don't understand what 'smogged' means, but it could be EGR or carbon build up in the EGR passage. It could be one of various EEC sensors sending poor info to computer or possible the TFI module on the distributor. Does the vehicle fire right back up after it stalls?

    How do i test the idle air control valve, mass air flow sensor & throttle position sensor.?

    i have a 95 maxima. my problem is when i start the car in the morning i have to hold the gas for a few mins. otherwise it turns off. the rpm just drops. When the car warms up its runs great, no idle problems. i went to a mechanic and got a diagnostic test reading IACV, egr valve and knock sensor came up. i did a full tune-up, changed the knock sensor, egr valve %26amp; checked for any vacuum leaks. i have an ohmmeter %26amp; want to check ths mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor %26amp; idle air control valve. can anyone explain how to use the ohmmeter on the IACV, MAFS %26amp; TPS, the connectors on the all 3 sensors have three pins. please explain the steps before i spend more money on repairs.How do i test the idle air control valve, mass air flow sensor %26amp; throttle position sensor.?
    You are probably wasting your time and money with this. Fuel injected cars work totally backwards from carburetted cars. The %26quot;gas%26quot; pedal is really the %26quot;air%26quot; pedal. If you must add more air to keep the engine running, then you probably only have a dirty idle air control valve. Locate it, remove it, clean it with Gum-out spray. This little gizmo is responsible for a host of invisible idling and running conditions. When it is not running right, it can CAUSE egr trouble, knock sensor trouble, and other hard to find woes. Over time, it can even cause expensive exhaust system trouble, including catalytic converter wear. While you are at it, clean the throttle body and plate. Also, check for the proper operation of your engine temperature switch. There is one that sends a signal to the CPU to tell it what temperature to use for adjusting fuel/air mixture. Use ONLY genuine Nissan parts. While you are at it, clean as many engine sensors that you can find. Check the wiring harness at the MAFS and the TPS. Most of these things will throw a code if they are malfunctioning. The things that most often cause trouble do NOT trigger a response from the OBD II. Good Luck!!When you have cleared things up, install a set of the new ND Twin Tip spark plugs. Your fuel mileage and power will go up. Good Luck!!How do i test the idle air control valve, mass air flow sensor %26amp; throttle position sensor.?
    Probably a bad iac, The electric motor mounts go bad and short the iacs out. I usually change the iac and pcm and re-program the pcm and unplu the motor mounts. To test the maf you need a scope, and even then testing is usually inconclusive. Ive never seen a tps go bad on a maxima.

    Egr Valve on a Ford Focus?

    I have a 2004 Ford Focus and it's been making this click/ticking noise when i'm turn it on, speed up, or just accelerate on the gas. So i took it to have an oil change to see if it was low oil and that wasn't it. So now that my dad looked at it for me the end part on the egr valve line has somewhere broke off or came off. I was wondering how much is that or could i just buy that little piece or replace the whole line. Here's what it looks like





    http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimaEgr Valve on a Ford Focus?
    If you have an auto zone by you you can call they will tell you but honestly you will prob have to replace the whole thing.Egr Valve on a Ford Focus?
    more than likely have to buy the complete egr valve. it comes as an assembly. not in pieces. as for cost it varies from vehicle to vehicle.Egr Valve on a Ford Focus?
    You should be able to get that part at a auto parts store .Just give them the year , make ,modeland engine size and they should fix you up.I don't think it will be over 10. bucks.for that part.Egr Valve on a Ford Focus?
    The ford dealer can sell just the EGR tube to you. It shouldn't be very much (less than $50). Make sure you replace the gasket.
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  • EGR Valve.?

    Where do I find the EGR valve on my 2000 neon I have been told that is the reason my car is knocking so much.How do I find it and how do i change it (how much will this cost me to buy )?EGR Valve.?
    You could change it but, the computer will need to be reset.EGR Valve.?
    go to the parts house and get the new valve first so you know what it looks like. The valve is located on the top of the engine, underneat the back side of the fuel injection system. it is on the end where the transmission sits and is normally just in front of the distributor cap.EGR Valve.?
    EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. You can find it by following the exhaust out of the engine and look for where there is a return to the intake. It may not be necessary to replace the valve. They get all gummed up from the exhaust and start to malfunction, valve won't open completely. Before you replace it take it out and give it a good cleaning so that all of the moving parts move freely. Put it back in and that should fix the problem if it was the EGR valve.EGR Valve.?
    90% of the time it's right on time or on the side in clear view!! very simple replacementEGR Valve.?
    STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?br>


    YOU SHOULD GET THE VEHICLES COMPUTER SCANNED AND CHECK FOR ANY PROBLEMS AS WELL AS CODES AND THEN YOU WILL HAVE A GOOD IDEA ON WHAT THE PROBLEM TRULY IS.



    TRY FINDING AN INDEPENDENT SHOP INSTEAD OF THE DEALER OR A CHAIN STORE BECAUSE YOU WILL BE OVERALL MORE PLEASED WITH THE FINDINGS AND THE SERVICE.



    LEAVE IT THERE WITH THEM SO THAT THEY CAN FIND THE PROBLEM FOR YOU, IT WILL BE A LOT BETTER THAN JUST REPLACING PART AFTER PART AND NO DOING ANY GOOD.EGR Valve.?
    Take your car to someone that works on cars all the time, a EGR valve only cost a few dollars(10.00 maybe not much),but knocking means something is loose on your motor could be a number of different things (their are a lot of moving parts in there) the EGR valve is located on your valve cover, it plugs in the top and has a 1/2 inch rubber hose connected to it, you can pull it out and shake it if it raddled it is OK, then start your engine and see if steam comes out of your valve cover or take your oil stick out and see if steam comes out there if steam comes out either place its not your EGR valve....SORRY.....Good luck

    How do I change a DPFE sensor in a 2000 Ford Taurus?

    Had my car scanned at Auto Zone and they said that either need to clean out the EGR valve (carbon may be blocking) or replace it. The car is running fine, just have an engine light. After I posted this problem on Yahoo Answers, several people have told me that it may actually be the DPFE sensor. I need to know how to change this sensor. This may not be related, but I also got a error code for secondary fuel pump circuit.How do I change a DPFE sensor in a 2000 Ford Taurus?
    im not sure what engine you have. My 94 T Bird had the same problem. The DPFE sensor was on the very back of the engine behind and below the throttle body(a real pain to get to without moving the engine around). The Tbird I had was with the 4.6L V8. I wound up taking it in and getting it fixed. it cost me around $400.00. I would recommend you take yours in too.How do I change a DPFE sensor in a 2000 Ford Taurus?
    Change your car dude. Its about time.How do I change a DPFE sensor in a 2000 Ford Taurus?
    Ford sent me a %26quot;no charge warranty extension program number 02M01%26quot; which covers the Tube Mounted EGR Sensor (part number 9J460) for an additional two years or 24,000 miles whichever occurs first. That would be after your 5 year, 60,000 mile emissions warranty expires. The Ford dealer is authorized to replace it at no charge to you. If you already paid to have it replaced, you can submit the bill to your Ford dealer. For questions, call 800-392-3673 (EST 8am-11pm, M-F and Saturday 8am-6pm).

    I was able to easily replace the sensor myself using their new part number 4U7Z-9J460-AA (Cost: $30.07). It has two hose ports and one 3 pin electrical connector with a release tab that is levered upwards to pull the connector and cable out. Look back of the engine by the EGR valve at the firewall.

    1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?

    I have a 1993 Honda accord LX manual with 159k miles on her. Shes been having issues, my mechanic says,

    %26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;

    Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .

    Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.

    My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.

    Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?

    ~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
    I will be honest with you, just reading articles on the internet and trying to diagnose your car with that info rarely fixes the problem, actually it costs you more time and money in the long run just throwing parts at it attempting to fix it. I would seriously consider taking it to a reputable repair facility that does engine diagnostics to determine the source of your problem. Usually this costs an hours labor and there is no obligation to get the work done there if you elect not to. Once they find out what the problem is, decide if either you or hubby can repair or if you feel more comfortable having a shop do the repair.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
    check fuel pressure and exhaust system/one of them is breaking down after it gets hot1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
    is it tuned up...find another opinion

    1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?

    I have a 1993 Honda accord LX manual with 159k miles on her. Shes been having issues, my mechanic says,

    %26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;

    Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .

    Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.

    My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.

    Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?

    ~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
    Sorry, you need a new mechanic.

    Unless the check engine light is comming on for an EGR code it is unlikely the problem.



    Did he also clean the EGR ports in the intake manifold? If the ports are still plugged, changing the EGR valve won`t do anything.



    If your fuel tank was really %26quot;full of crap%26quot; your fuel pump would be the first thing to get plugged up and the car wouldn`t even start.



    I recommend getting a proper diagnosis from a honda repair technician or at the very least someone who is qualified to do driveability repairs.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
    It's not unheard of but your caytilic converter in your exhaust may be pluged.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
    If the mechanic said the tank was full of junk did they clean the tank? They should've cleaned it and put a new sock on the fuel pick-up. Also did they replace the fuel filter? Usually when the cat gets plugged your car lags all the time.

    Saturday, November 20, 2010

    Help!!!!! I have a 86 jeep Comanche I just bought and I have failed 4 smog test. Please help me?

    I have changed the egr valve, O2 sensor, map sensor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, thermostat, PVC valve, fuel filter and air filter...... My readings at 15 mph... Rpm= 1853 CO2%=13.7 O2%=1.5 HC(PPM)=20 CO(%)=0.01 NO(PPM)=1386

    My readings at 25 mph..... Rpm= 1868 CO2%=13.7 O2%=1.6 HC(PPM)=18 CO(%)=0.01 NO(PPM)=1406....... I need to know how to raise my CO(%) and maybeHelp!!!!! I have a 86 jeep Comanche I just bought and I have failed 4 smog test. Please help me?
    The Jeep is failing for NOx. NOx problems are the most difficult to diagnose. NOx can be present as a unique problem, or it can be the result of a secondary failure.



    By raising the CO the NOx will come down.



    Two things come to mind, what is the:

    1. fuel pressure and

    2. fuel volume (there are specs for both but rule of thumb is 1 liter of fuel in 30

    seconds). Low fuel pressure will cause low CO and high NOx.



    The other big thing is, where is the timing set to? Retarding the timing (if it is adjustable and I think it is) will bring down the NOx.



    I had so, so many problems with after-market EGRs that I simply wouldn't use them. And, is the EGR system actually functioning? This is should be a vacuum actuated EGR valve and there is probably a computer controlled vacuum solenoid. Is it working? My guess is that it is, otherwise the NOx would be much higher.



    Carbon build-up on the pistons, could also be causing an increase in NOx. The carbon starts glowing and causes preignition resulting in increased NOX. Although if that was the case the HC would be elevated too. There are top end engine cleaners available which might make a difference.



    And finally, the CAT might be the problem. There is a large volume of oxygen in the exhaust in the presence of CO and HC. If the CAT is really working well, it will use all available O2 and

    burn any and all CO and HC.

    Good luck,

    MarcHelp!!!!! I have a 86 jeep Comanche I just bought and I have failed 4 smog test. Please help me?
    your failure is due to elevated NOX. do me a favor adn do a compression test on all the cylinders and get back to me, ill bet that you will find elevated readings in most if not all cylinders. i had a similar issue the last 2 times i went in for smog. took a teachers advice and resolved the issue in about 45 minutes.Help!!!!! I have a 86 jeep Comanche I just bought and I have failed 4 smog test. Please help me?
    I would guess that the easiest fix would be a different, or maybe just an additional, catalytic converter.



    An 86 is bound to have some oil blowby, so switch to Castrol 20w-50.

    Add a very long hose to the crankcase breather, which goes to a cold metal condenser someplace low, and then back up to the air cleaner, would help.



    But you could try leaving the air filter element out completely for the test.



    You could also try opening up a small intake manifold leak. You would not want to do that for long, but for the test it might help.



    With the high NOx, you have too good of an explosion, so it needs to be poisoned. That is what the EGR is supposed to do, so make sure its ports are not clogged. Add a length of hose to the control input, and suck on it to simulate actual perations. If the EGR works then at idle the engine will almost quit running. Then check the hose that is supposed to be on the EGR, and make sure it gets vacuum at 1500 and above, rpm, until up to around 3000. If that is good, then the EGR is not the problem, but you might be better off with premium gas or some alcohol additive.



    If you get really desperate, register the truck at a rural post office box in an area that does not require DEQ testing, because they don't have a station.

    People do this often at vacation cottages, so is perfectly legal.
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  • Remove Intake Manifold Replace EGR Valve lx coupe 2.4l?

    Can anyone tell me how to remove the intake manifold off of a 2.4l sebring coupe? Trying to replace EGR Valve. Not very savvy with things like this on cars. Just a typical change oil and spark plugs kind of person. How hard would it be to do this? Bought a Haynes manual which blows ***!Remove Intake Manifold Replace EGR Valve lx coupe 2.4l?
    The main part about doing repairs is understanding how the system your working on works. If you can't understand it you can't understand the book either. WHY do you want to remove the intake to change an EGR? The manual is for people with some mechanical knowledge who need specs and procedures and I am sure that if you read the step by step instructions a few times over while looking under the hood you will grasp the manuals meanings and if not then for Heavens sake don't try pulling your intake apart, call a mechanic.

    What could the problem be? 2001 escape?

    i have a problem with my 2001 ford escape, when i step on the gas is hesitates the acceleration and it fields forced, also im getting low millage on gas, i already change the egr valve and an oxygen censor, i was told it could be the catalytic converter but i don't want to put more money in to it if im not 100% sure of what the problem is, i was also told that the escape has three catalytics and if this is true how would i know witch one is bad?

    I already did a check up and it keeps giving me a code for a bad oxygen sensor.What could the problem be? 2001 escape?
    Here is the plain truth

    When was the last time you changed the tranny fluid, every 10,000 miles, no? ooops

    Clean the throttle-body ? every 10,000 no, then ooops

    Tune-up at 100,000 miles with PVC valve, no, then ooops

    There are indeed three cats, one on each side of the engine with an o2 sensor before and after, then there is the one on the tail-pipe end after the two cats which is in line before the muffler, then the resonator at the end where the tail pipe is. Most likely you need to replace the cat under the car viewed from the under the passenger side door, you will view a seam to the head exhaust pipe. When this gets blocked from not changing your o2 sensors in time. Every 90,000 miles. If you have allot of back pressure, this will make it feel like it is indeed being forced to move forward. Most likely it would be the first o2 sensor in the front before the cat where the radiator is, its under the front of your engine to the left of the water pump. It is really hard to remove without the proper o2 sensor socket, and it takes a hand only size socket 3/8 with universal to get this out. A bad o2 sensor will render you bad gas mileage but so will fouled fuel injectors.

    You will also be required soon to replace the number one sparkplug coil, this will create a hesitation in accelreationWhat could the problem be? 2001 escape?
    There should be rules about who can respond to these questions. Wow...



    Anyway, you never told us what code. %26quot;Bad oxygen sensor%26quot; code doesn't hack it, I want the code number. Just one code or a couple?



    Why would you slam an EGR in this thing?



    Really, if just one of the pre-cats were restricted you would have misfire codes.



    Sorry, that's about all I can tell you until you provide me some data.

    What is this part? Please?

    I dropped a bolt in the back of my engine while i was trying to change the EGR valve in my 01 Windstar. I leaned on a hose and snap it from the connection. Here is a picture of what it is, its a cooling hose coming from the engine to i believe what is called the firewall, and than under the car. I disconnected the hose and plan on going to Ford tomorrow, how much should this part cost and what does it do? Heres a picture



    http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a81/oyoWhat is this part? Please?
    How much, idk

    but it looks like the hose to the rear heaterWhat is this part? Please?
    It's a heater hose. Your van probably has a heater in the rear.What is this part? Please?
    If that is in fact a heater hose. Go to Autozones site. Type in your vehicle , then click on

    heater hose assembly. See if those dorman replacement parts will help you.



    Hope this helps.

    I should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?

    I hope someone out there can help me with this problem. I hope some one would tell me what are the legal steps I can take to solve this, and maybe put an end to this game that most auto repair shop are playing to get more money out of our pocket.

    It started like this; I took my car for inspection and I was told because the engine light is on can’t pass the test and they have to run diagnostics test and the charge for that would be $89.00, I told them this test was done and I was told it is the EGR( exhaust gas recirculation) system, and they told me that is not good, they have to do the test so they can pin point the problem and find the actual part that is not working and change that, not keep changing part until they get to bad one, we have to do the test our self. So they charged me for the inspection and told me you have fifteen days to solve the problem and bring it back for the inspection other wise you have to pay for the inspection again.

    First of all if you want to do the repair and your are calling yourself specialist you must be able to find the defective part and replace it, and when you are charging people for labor what is the meaning of this diagnostics charge, isn’t this just another excuse to get more money from people? And when you did not do anything why did you charge me for the inspection?

    I tried to solve the problem, I took my car to other places and I was told the problem is the EGR (code 401), so I bought the valve and I changed it, and it took me 15 minutes to change it for which some places were going to charge me 3 hours of labor to change it and after driving the car for 10 miles the engine light came back on and since I was not able to solve the problem I had no choice but to take the car to the same place before I lose that inspection and I did that and asked them to do what ever needed to be done so I can have my inspection. And I told them I have changed the EGR valve.

    After about half an hour they told me;” the problem was the TRANSDUCER” and because I, never in the past have heard that word and never even seen that word in the TOYOTA book, I thought it’s better if I don’t say any thing. So I asked them how much this is going to cost? I was told “part and labor is going to be $ 229.00 and I said it is OK. And I went home.

    After few hours I called them to see what happened to my car and they told me they changed the part and took the car out for the road test and after some driving the ENG light came back on and they had to look for the problem. And there is another part that they have to change!!! So what happened to pin pointing the problem?

    To make the long story short; they called me after five pm and told me since they are going to be closed soon they can deliver my car and they asked for my credit card number they told me every thing is ok and they are going to run another test and put the sticker on my car and bring it to me.

    They did that and they gave me the bill for $ 335.79. It was almost 6 pm on Saturday, Sep,28,08 or even later that they brought my car and their shop was closed and Sunday they are also closed, so I called them very early Monday morning and ask them to leave all the parts that they changed on my car, because I would like to pick those parts, immediately I have received this respond; “we do not keep the parts and we dumped them, I told them please get them out of the trash can even if you did so, I would like to have those parts back, I was told we will check.

    After some time I have received a call and was informed that they do not have the parts, because the trash truck was there on Monday morning and pick them up and they are gone.

    Believe me, I knew they are lying, and did not give up, by calling them and talking, and trying to reason with them, they come up with this story; we have find one of the parts it was under the table, but we can not find the other one, (this is the one that I told them it was working and you should not have changed that). At this time they offer me, “the best we can do for you is giving you $40.00 back”. I told him thank you and hang up.

    I was not about to give up, I called the corporate office of that business and talk to a gentleman who I was told is in charge and will take care of this problem; I should mention that now it is almost 20 days past, and the gentleman told me, he is going to talk to the mechanic and people in that location and get back to me, and after few hours and couple of times calling me and asking question, he finally called me and said.

    “I asked the mechanic who worked on your car to go and look for those parts and they find your parts you can pick them up. Now I have the parts but I am sure the part is not going to work this part was check at other place and it was OK I am positive that they have tampered with this part before they give it back to me to save themselves, so I hope some one can help me and guide me so maybe I can put an end to this non since that repair sI should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?
    I don’t have the answer to all of your questions. However, there are some things that you CAN do to repair your credit. In fact, sometimes you can indeed get negative items removed; depending on the situation. This might be a good place to start.



    I recommend trying the free course at http://www.redfoxcredit.com/repair.php They provide a lot of great information for improving your credit score, and it worked well for me.

    I should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?
    That is not a short story. I didn't even bother reading it.I should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?
    lol can i hand this in and tell my teacher its my english essay?I should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?
    I worked at a dealership as a Auto Tech for years. With that said there are some diagnose issues that are very difficult..where isolating the problem sometimes will take replacing the most common issue because there is no other way to diagnose it from another problem. They may have made one mistake which you can ***** about but sometimes that's how it is. If you don't believe me ask a Dr. when they are trying to diagnose something, they will give you a certain medication for a couple of weeks and if that doesn't work they will try something else and they are making 4 times as much as the mechanic. Yet the Dr. will charge you for the cost of the first appointment and you had to pay the first medication. Same deal sorry.I should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?
    if you have an auto zone store they will read the trouble codes for you for nothing and then you can change the defective part and then have them read for codes to see if there is any other code that comes up. free I would cal your states auto inspection unit and file a complaint in writing after you talk on the phone or email and tell them exactly what happened , They don't take kindly to inspection stations ripping people off. they license those places and can do grave damage to them.I should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?
    State inspection fee is due pass or fail, state law. Once the inspection is started it cannot be aborted in order to avoid the test fee.



    Most shops will not accept someone else's diagnosis just for the reason you stated, you had a EGR code, you changed that part and it did not solve the problem.



    Was the EGR part a genuine Toyota part? If not then that part could still not work correctly. Did the shop miss the diagnosis also? Sounds like it. Did they fix the check engine light one way or another at very little extra cost? Yes, they did.



    What are you entitled too? The difference between the original quote of $229.00 and the final bill of $335.00 would be fair. Expecting your old parts back would be fair also and more the norm in automotive rather than the exception.

    If the car is fixed and has a sticker I would not be too concerned about the old parts though unless the egr valve was one of the replaced parts and you want you money back from the parts store.



    Good luckI should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?
    Yours is a long story that I've heard before. Listen closely! As with check engine light the best place to go for the correct code is the dealer of your car. No if's and's or but's. When ever you take your car for an inspection and you know something isn't right why trust Joe sh*t the rag man with a diagnosis.



    When faced with problems like this, get it fixed by a registered dealer before it's inspection time. Remember this as a lesson, Joe the rag man will keep feeding it parts till he finally hits the right one. You are still faced with another inspection because it never passed in the first place. IT'S THE LAW DUDE!

    P1400 code on a 2004 Ford Taurus?

    I have already changed the EGR valve and cleared the code. After about 50 miles the light came back on with a P1400 code. Any other ideas on how to fix this?P1400 code on a 2004 Ford Taurus?
    More than likely replace the DPFE sensor. Ford has a major problem with them.
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  • 20001 suzuki xl7?

    where and how to change the egr valve20001 suzuki xl7?
    First is to locate part, it varies from year to year. Go to local auto parts store and check out your needed part, this gives you visualazation reference. EGR (exhaust, gas, recirclation) vavle is located near the exhaust manifold and has a couple of vacum lines going into it, in most cases go ahead and replace these lines real cheap but can give the same symptoms as a bad egr valve. Due to the excessive heat this part deals with make sure to use liquid wrench at the threads to ease with the removal ......

    I need to know how to locate the EGR valve for my 96 toy corolla. anyone know?

    if someone could let me know how to locate it i need to change it out to pass emissions. if ya have a pic of it. that would be better.. i now very little about cars but someone said I could do it myself, its that easy... thanksI need to know how to locate the EGR valve for my 96 toy corolla. anyone know?
    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/lI need to know how to locate the EGR valve for my 96 toy corolla. anyone know?
    For times when I am unsure where a part is located, I always go to my local parts house and ask to look at the part I need.

    I then go under the hood to find it.



    As far as your EGR goes, it will have a vacuum line going to it, and it will sort of look like a %26quot;space ship%26quot;

    It will probably be on the passenger side bank.I need to know how to locate the EGR valve for my 96 toy corolla. anyone know?
    I suggest that you go out and purchase a %26quot;Chilton%26quot; book for your make %26amp; model car.I need to know how to locate the EGR valve for my 96 toy corolla. anyone know?
    http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090

    Click pictures to enlarge.

    How to replace my EGR valve on my 99 Ford Escort

    Need to replace the EGR on my Escort. I know how to do it it only has 2 nuts and the hose at the bottom. I cannot seem to get the hose off at the bottom as you know you have to loosen the nut at the top of the hose and pull the hose out. 1. I cant really get too the nut with a wrench it is a very tight squeese. 2. It is super tight it is all rusted out and all I sprayed with WD-40 but I still can't get too it. I took out the battery and the battery tray and it gave me a little more room, but not much. Any suggestions or ideas. Please don't tell me to take it to a shop because I do not want to pay to get this done $600 for a hour process. Plus I was told not a big deal if I change it or not just emmisions part. I want it done anyway. Anyone who has done this and hade the same problems or any advice please let me know. KyleHow to replace my EGR valve on my 99 Ford Escort
    id use a torch and heat it up, that will break it loose. there is no way any shop would charge 600 dollars to change this part, try more like 100-150